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Manaslu Region
The standard 21 -day hike usually begins in Gorkha but for those preferring a longer trek, the winding road to Trisuli becomes the preface to this exciting walk Because of its isolation and newness to tourism, this trip must be done as a full service trek through an official trekking company. All supplies necessary for the trip (including food and kerosene) must be carried in and all rubbish must be portered out. A Nepalese Liaison Officer must accompany each group to assure protection of both the fragile environment and cultures there. The trip begins with a six-hour drive from Kathmandu to Gorkha, a fascinating place steeped in Nepalese history. Walking through the town bazaar, one veers off to the right to climb a steep staircase which leads to the stunning Gorkha Durbar. This palace is probably the most famous fortress site in Nepal and was the ancestral home of the Kingdom's present day monarch. That night's camp is just a short walk down the backside of the ridge where the first breathtaking mountain views of the region begin to emerge. The Manaslu massif spreads itself across the northern horizon. The next morning's walk begins bright arid early and most trekkers are revied to go. Following the ridge line one gradually descends to Ale Bhanjyang then climbs again giving new walkers a chance to gain their "trekking" legs. The walking continues through countryside populated with Brahmin-Chhetri villages and sub-tropical vegetation including banana and papaya trees. In the following days the trail drops and enters the river gorge of the Mokti Khola. Following the stream bed one crosses endlessly back and forth while concentrating on selecting the least slippery stone for a foothold. The night time camp destination is the ancient trading town of Arughat Bazaar Nestled at the confluence of the Budi Gandaki river, views up the impressive river canyon provide a glimpse of the trail days ahead. The next several days are spent negotiating the trails along the Budi Gandaki river A variety of terrain is presented while following an undulating trail. Waterfalls and dense forests are interspersed between high rock canyon walls and it is easy to become distracted watching the river's erratic flow. Along the way numerous smaller rivers empty into the Budi Gandaki and the trail crosses several small wooden bridges. At a particular crossing near the Chhulung Khola, a simple wooden bridge spans the narrow crossing where huge boulders have compressed the river's flow. Set in a lovely forest of pine and conifer trees, no one can resist a few minutes of rest and solitude in this magical place.
The next destination is Deng (1.900 m) where again things begin to change: People encountered here are of Tibetan and Gurung mix and who speak a language which is specific to their community. Mostly farmers and shepherds, they are encountered often along the trail in typically Tibetan dress. It is here also that beautiful stretches of mani walls begin to line the trails. Through the villages of Li Gaon (2.900 m), Sho and Lo Gaon (3.200 m). feisty kids with wind blown hair and tattered wool chubbas peer over the stone walls lining the trail to have a look at the visiting strangers and the first murmurs of "shim-sham" (sweet) are heard. The river valley now opens out into cultivated fields of millet and potatoes. The trail plunges down to a small stream which it follows back into a dense forest and after a steep climb spills out into a meadow area called Shala (3.450 m) which offers breath-taking views of the mountains surrounding this vantage point on all sides: Phungi, Manaslu, Ngadi, and Himalchuli. The trail again snakes back into the forest but emerges again upon a long plateau before the village of Sama Gaon (3.600m). Sama Gaon is very Tibetan-like with yaks grazing and many horses roaming around. The multi-layered mani stone structure at the east end of the village is unlike any other encountered in Nepal. The village itself is a tightly knit structure, rows of houses built one next to the other, and the cobble-stone walkways passing by people's courtyards provides a wonderful introduction to the town. The Gompa or monastery at the far end of the valley is well worth a visit To reach the village of Samdo (3.900 m) it takes a half-day's walk. The trail is quite gradual and follows the wide open river bed over much stone and sand. As you near Samdo, keep on the look out for "Himalayan Mussa" or Himalayan marmot which are abundant here. Samdo is another Tibetan-like village of winding walkways and snugly built shelters. The people here are very friendly and often invite you inside to warm up around the family cook fire while sipping a bowl of heated chhang (beer). Signs of trade with Tibet are everywhere, yak caravans thunder by and wind blown horse riders plow down the trails with fearless speed. Crossing the Larkya La takes two days. Again, climbing is slow here to allow the body to adjust to high altitude. The first day's climb leaves Samdo and crosses a small wooden bridge where one finally leaves the Budi Gandaki behind. Then it is a steep trail winding around with views looking down on the remains of Larkya Bazaar. After three hours you reach the final campsite before the pass, Phede (base camp) or Duwang (4.450 m), which consists of one stone shelter and several temporary ones. An early morning start is required to gain the pass. This often means beginning to walk with head lamps and kerosene lights in very early morning hours. At times there is no visible trail - an experienced guide is essential to keep the group together and to select the efficient route Passing by a large frozen lake, the colorful I prayer flags and small chorte marking the Larkya La (5.250 m) at last becomes visible - a truly remarkable site between rock and sky. Descending the pass is not an easy task and as the very steep trail cuts down over rock. Camp is located in the Bimthang Valley (3.700m) : an enchanting meadow nestled beneath Phungi I Himal and Manaslu's north-west face. The next morning there is a crossing of the Himlun Glacier and a bit of scrambling across the rubble which has been pushed on the top. Continuing to drop, the trail enters a tranquil pine and rhododendron forest with frequent clearings affording excellent views back to Manaslu. This trail meanders and twists down through forest until the quick approach leads back to rice terraced fields and farm land once again. The Gurung village of Tilge (2.300 m) is an especially charming spot. Gradually the trail winds down and away from the snow peaks toward another cultural contrast: the Annapurna Circuit After a night's camp before Tonje, at the confluence of the Dudh Khola and the Marsyangdi, it crosses to the west side of the Marsyangdi and now joins the super-highway of the circuit. A striking contrast to Manaslu's remoteness quickly illustrated by the numerous trekking lodges, English signboards, and greatly increased number of trekkers encountered on the trail. The final days walking out follows down the regular approach route for the Annapurna Circuit but also holds some pleasant surprises along the way. The quaint village of Tal is a restful place for a lunch stop or overnight camp site near its graceful waterfall. The village of Jagat boasts hot springs for tired, sore legs and several ridge top restaurants which offer fine ridge line views. The trail on to Besisahar, the road head of this area, finds the river canyon opining up and flattening out. Last hours on the trek are spent walking through the quiet heat of rice terraces where naturally the mind meanders back to memories of brilliant snow peaks and cold weather of the high altitude pass. One is immediately amazed at how it seems already, like part of the distant past. |
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