Land of the Thunder Dragon
BHUTAN INTRODUCTION
Drukyul - Bhutan- Land of the Thunder Dragonis is perhaps the last of the Shangrilas. Situated in the Great Himalayan range, it is bordered by the Tibetan regions of China in the north and the sweltering plains of India in the south. The kingdom is spread over 46.620 Km2 (18,000 square miles) with varied climatic conditions ranging from the subtropical to the cold reaches of the almost 8.000 m (25,000 ft) snow-capped mountain ranges of the Tibetan border.
With a population of around 600.000, it is thinly populated and a paradise in its real sense. Bhutan follows Lamaism Buddhism with Hinduism concentrated in the south. Known for its unspoiled culture and ancient traditions, for Bhutan the past is. Still the present and its religion still a way of life.
Bhutan was opened to tourism only in 1974 by the present king, Jigme Singye Wangchuck, under a careful regulated program. Central Bhutan, with the beautiful valleys of Bumthang, was opened to tourism as recently as 1982. In 1991, the industry was partially privatized with a Tourism Authority of Bhutan formed, to regulate the industry.
Bhutan is one of the last areas still pristine in all its nature-where nature and the people live in harmony. Untainted flora, unhunted fauna, rare botanical plants, the colourful
bird life and the scenic beauty offer a treat for both young and old. Colourful festivals with mask dances depicting its rich cultural past and the great Himalayan ranges in the background definitely deserves a visit.
HISTORY
The name "Bhutan" is said to derive from the ancient Indian term "Bhotanta" which means the end of the land of the "Bhots" (the Sanskrit name for Tibetans) but it could also extend from the Sanskrit word "Bhu'uttan" or "high land". Ancient Tibetan writers called their fertile neighbour "Lho Mon" or "Lho Yul", "Paradise of the South or the Land of the Monpas". The Bhutanese refer to their country as "Druk Yul" or "Land of the Peaceful Dragon", Druk meaning dragon and extending from the predominant Drukpa School of Tibetan Buddhism.
Bhutan was not unified under a central authority until the 17th Century. However, religious belief acted as a spiritual cohesion for many years. Guru Padmasambhava made his legendary trip from Tibet across the mountains flying on a tigress' back arriving at Taktsang Lhakang, Tiger's Nest in the Paro Valley. Guru Padmasambhava is recognised as the father of the Nyingmapa religious school. Many of Bhutan's celebrated ancestors have their origin in Nyingmapa School. Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, a Tibetan Lama of the Drukpa School designed the present system of intertwined religious and secular government. He fought and won a battle against the Tibetans in 1639 and so unified the country and established himself as the country's supreme leader. Within five years of his death the whole country had come under the control of the central government. At the end of the 19th century, the Penlop (Governor) of Tongsa overcame the Penlop of Paro and was afterwards recognised as the overall leader of Bhutan. Ugyen Wangchuck was elected the first king of Bhutan in 1907 and ever since the monarchy has thrived and the present king is His Majesty King Jigme Singye Wangchuck.
RELIGION
The Buddhist faith has played and continues to play a fundamental role in the cultural, ethical and sociological development of Bhutan and its people. It permeates all levels of secular life, bringing with it a deep devotion for the country and its well being. Annual tsechus and dromchoes celebrate spiritual festivities in each district.
Throughout Bhutan, stupas and chortens line the roadside commemorating a holy place. Prayer flags are found fluttering on long poles maintaining a constant communications with the heavens. Bhutan retains the Tantric form of Mahayana Buddhism as its official religion.
PEOPLE
Bhutan's indigenous population is the Drukpa. The three main ethnic groups, the Sharchops, the Ngalops and the Lhotshampas (of Nepalese origin) make up today's Drukpa. The national language is Dzongkha.
GEOGRAPHY
The kingdom lies east of Nepal and west of the Indian state of Arunachal Pradesh, south of Tibet and north of the Indian stare territories of West Bengal and Assam. Bhutan is a land-locked coun-try surrounded by mountains to the north and west. The altitudes in the south range from 300 to 1.500 meters, from 1.300 meters in the east around Tashigang to a high of 5.600 meters over the highest pass. The altitude at Thimphu, the capital, is 2.560 meters.
LOCAL TIME
Bhutan's time is six hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time at 12 noon GMT it is 6 PM in Bhutan. Bhutan's time is half an hour ahead of India's. When it is 12 noon in New Delhi, it is 12.30 PM in Bhutan.
CLIMATE
Bhutan has four distinct seasons. The southern plains close to the Indian border are warmer and more tropical than higher central valleys. The winter months are fiercely cold with temperatures rising around the end of February. Rhododendrons begin to bloom first in the warmer east and by the height of spring, the whole king-dom is lush with spectacular flaming white, pink and red of the rhododendron blossom. The annual monsoon affects the south and central regions.
FESTIVALS
Many visitors come to Bhutan to witness religious festivals held annually in Dzongs throughout the country. The most popular are those held in Thimphu, Paro and Bumthang. The Dzongs come to life with colour, music and dancing as valley dwellers and town people join to exorcise evil spirits and rejoice in a new harvest. Rare masked and sword dances and other rituals are performed in the Dzong's courtyards and temples. Most of these dances date back to the Middle Ages and are only performed once or twice each year. Visitors should find out werther regional dromchoes or tsechus are taking place, as they can be fascinating.
ECO-TOURISM
Few countries in the world offer the environmental tourist such a large choice of features, from pristine mountain air to crystal water where fishing is prohibited. Bhutan makes major efforts to stay clean. The kingdom is eager to learn from other countries how to prevent ecological and environmental catastrophes. The government strictly monitors reforestation. Tourists are invited to visit the Royal Society for the Protection of Nature in Thimphu.
ECONOMY
In 1995, the per capita income was estimated at US$ 500 with the annual growth at 5%. Although these figures places Bhutan among the least developed nations the country is unlike others within that category as no famine, little malnutrition, good housing, exists. Over 91 % of the population depend on agriculture and livestock rearing which together account for some 50% of GDP despite the fact that only 2% of the land is arable.
MONEY
- The National currency is Ngultrum (Nu) 100 Chetrum = 1 Nu. Exchange rate is approximately US$ 1 = Nu 35 .
- The Bhutanese currency is the ngultum. Dollars and traveller checks are accepted in large hotels and tourist shops.
CLOTHING'S
- Cotton and light woollen in summer (June/September).
- Heavy woollens and jackets the rest of the year. Take an umbrella and comfortable s hoes for the monsoons.
VISA
All visitors to Bhutan require visas. All visa applications must reach Bhutan well in advance of the tourist's intended arrival date. Tourists are required to bring original photographs as required by the Immigration Authority. Individual tourist visas for a period of two weeks cost $20, extensions can be obtained at an additional cost of $20.
ACCOMMODATION
Hotels vary in style and quality from town to town. All government-approved hotels are clean and well maintained. In Thimphu and Paro and in central districts all hotels are equipped with telephones, fax and international telephone connections. All hotels have their own restaurants and some also have a bar. Traditional Bhutanese food is very hot and spicy. In tourist areas, the food is adapted to western taste and includes western dishes. Evening meals are invariably buffet style.
PLACES OF INTEREST IN BHUTAN
PARO VALLEY
Generally visitors enter the Kingdom at Paro by the National Airline, Druk Air. This beautiful valley, if ever a place exists, here nature and man consulted to create their dearest image, it must be the valley of Paro. Mt. Chomoihari 7320m reigns in white glory at the northern end of the valley and its glacial water plunge through deep gorges to form the Pa-Chu (Paro River). Paro is one of the most fertile valleys in the kingdom producing a bulk of the famous red rice from its terraced field's home to some of Bhutan's oldest temples & monasteries.
Drugyal Dzong: which means victorious fortress was built in 1647 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyel to commemorate his victory over the Tibetan invaders, led by Mongolian warlord, Gushri Khan in 1644. Strategically built over the only passage into Paro valley the dzong helped to repel numerous invasions all through the course of Bhutanese history. It so impressed early visitors that in 1914 the dzong featured on the cover of the National Geographic magazine. An accidental fire gutted the dzong in 1951. The ruins, as it stands today still attract tourists.
Taktsang Monastery: literally means the Tiger's den. This temple clings precariously to a granite cliff 800m above the Paro valley. Legend has it that the great Guru Padmasambhava flew to this spot on back of a tigress and meditated in a cave during the 8th century. The temple was built around the cave and is a hallowed shrine for Bhutanese pilgrims. A terrible fire in April 1998 destroyed Taktsang's medieval wall paintings and all inner temples. A new con-struction has already begun by the royal Government.
Rinpung Dzong: meaning the fortress on a heap of Jewels was built during the time of Shabdrung in 1646. The approach to the dzong is through a traditional covered bridge. A walk to the dzong offers a good view of the architectural wonder of the dzong as well as life around it. The dzong now houses the Paro monastic school and the office of the civil administration. It is also the venue of the great Paro Tshechu (festival) held once a year in spring.
Ta Dzong: looking down upon the Rinpung dzong was built in 1651 as a watchtower. The Ta Dzong is round more like parts of an European castle. Since 1967 the dzong was re-established as the national museum and holds fascinating collections of arts, relics and religious thankha paintings.
Farmhouse: the beauty of Paro valley is embellished by cluster of quaint farmhouses. Bhutanese houses are very colorful and traditionally built without the use of a single nail. The house looks very big from outside but is quite simple inside. It's normally three storeys. The ground floor is always used for cattle while the attic is used to store hay. The families live in the middle floor. The best room is always kept for the family chapel. A visit to a farmhouse is very interesting and offers a good glimpse into the lifestyle of a farmer.
THIMPU (2.300m)
The modern capital of Bhutan lies at an elevation of 2300m in a valley traversed by the Wang Chu (river). Tashichho dzong the main Secretariat building which houses the throne room of His Majesty and a summer residence of the central monk body. Although not what one expects from a capital city, Thimphu is a fitting and lively place. Home to civil servants, expatriates and the monk body, Thimphu maintains a strong national character in its architectural style. It is also an ideal spot for day walks. Phajoding monastery is a 4-hrs hike from the Motithang area; Tango & Cheri monasteries are also another 3/4hrs hike from the capital or all the way to the top of telegraph hill where thousands of prayer flags obscure the view over Thimphu.
Memorial Chorten: this stupa was built in 1974 in the memory of the late third King Jigme Dorji Wangchuk. The paintings and images inside the monument provide a rare sight into Buddhist philosophy.
Tashichho Dzong: was initially built in the 17th century, was rebuilt in early 1960s by the third King Jigme Dorji Wangchuk. Tashichho Dzong houses the main Secretariat building and the central monk body. It is open to visitors during Thimphu festival and when the monk body moves to their winter home in Punakha.
Changangkha temple: built in the 15 century by lama Phajo Drigom lies on a hilltop commanding the Thimphu valley. The temple has very old scriptures and Thankhas. The main deity of the temple is Avalokiteshvara, God of compassion.
Simtokha: the oldest dzong in the country stands on a lofty at the end of the valley. It was built in 1627-1629 and now houses the Bhutanese language teachers pass out from this university.
Indigenous hospital: since Bhutan has its own brand of Himalayan medicine the Government has given equal emphasis to both allopathic and traditional medicines. The rich herbal medicine is prepared here. The old art healing like acupuncture is still practised.
National Library: the history of Bhutan lies imprinted in archaic texts, which are preserved at the National library. Besides thousands of manuscripts and ancient texts the library also has modern academic books and printing blocks for prayer flags.
Painting school: where young children learn the ancient art of paintings. Once can actually see students work. Education is free for the students since the Government wants to attract more students. These children after passing out they are distributed to different districts to apply the same art of traditional paintings in these areas, which is one reason that the Bhutanese houses have almost the same type of colour & design.
Vegetable market: Every Saturday & Sunday most of the Thimpu's population and many valley dwellers congregate on the banks of the river where the weekend market is held. This is the only time in the week when fresh vegetables are available and Saturday morning is a hive of activities.
PUNAKHA
Punakha Dzong built between two rivers in the 17th century by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyel served as capital of Bhutan until 1955 and is still the winter residence of the central monk body. In spite of four catastrophic fires and an earthquake that destroyed many historic documents, Punakha Dzong houses sacred artefacts and embalmed body of Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyel. Punakha's climate and warmer temperatures make its valley one of the most fertile of Bhutan. Chime Lhakhang located on a hillock among the rice fields is picturesque and is a pilgrimage site for childless couples. The temple is associated with the famous saint Drukpa Kuenlay "The Devin Madman" who has built a Chorten on the site during the 14th century.
WANGDI PHODRANG (1.300m)
- To the south of Punakha lies Wangdi Phodrang Dzong at an elevation of1.300m. Wangdi Phodrang is the last town on the central highway before Central Bhutan. Sitting on top of the hill overlooking the junction of two rivers is the town's most visible feature, Wangduephodrang Dzong which in the 17th Century played a critical role in unifying the main regions of Bhutan. Gangtey Gompa, located to the east of Wangduephodrang is an old monastery dating back to the 17th Century. A few kilometres past the gompa are the village of Phopbjika. This is the winter home of black-necked cranes that migrate from the north to spend the winter in a milder and lower climate.
TRONGSA (2.200m)
Trongsa at an altitude of 2.200m forms the central hub of the nation and is historically the place from where attempts at unifying the country were launched. The Royal family has strong links with Trongsa. Both His Majesty King Ugyen Wangchuck and successor: King Jigme Wangchuck ruled the country from this Dzong.
Trongsa Dzong: built in 1648 is an impregnable fortress. The massive structure is built on many levels into the side of the hill that includes countless courtyards, passageways and corridors in addition to the twenty-three temples inside the Dzong. Due to its highly strategic position as the only connected route between east and west the Trongsa Penlop (Governor) was able to control the whole region effectively for centuries. Above the Dzong a Ta Dzong (watchtower) was build to watch out for invaders and travellers. Now it's a temple dedicated to the great hero Ling Gesar.
BUMTHANG or JAKAR
To the east of Trongsa lies the Bumthang valley at an altitude of 2.600m, has an individuality that charms its visitors and separates it from other regions. Comprised of four smaller valleys, the deeply spiritual region of Bumthang is shrouded in religious legend. Here tales of Guru Padmasambhava and his reincarnation knows as Tertons still linger in most nooks and corners. The town of Jakar is the largest between Thimpu in the west and Trashigang in the east. Jakar is famous for his honey production, cheese, apple juice and apricots. Visitors to Bumthang should plan to spend a few days taking advantage of the valley's relatively gentle slopes to walk nearby medieval temples and glimpse Bhutan's mostly rural population. It is also know for its woollen material (yathra) which can be seen hung outside of houses for sale. Further east there is the Ura valley with the village of Ura in its centre. Small but old dzong and cobblestone paths give the village a medieval feel. Many excursions can be done at this valley like Tharpaling monastery, Kunzangdra, Tang Mebartso and many more....
- Jambey Lhakhang: built in the 7th century by a Tibetan King Songtsen Gempo believed to be the reincarnation of the Buddha of compassion. This temple is one of the 108 temples built by him to subdue a large demon, which was stopping the spread of Buddhism.
- Kurje Lhakhang: located above Jambey Lhakhang consist of three temples. The one on the right was built in 1652 on the rock face where Guru meditated in the 8th century.
- Second temple is built on the site of a cave where Guru Padmasambhava left his body imprint on the rock. The cave is not visible as a large statue of the Guru Rinpoche conceals it.
- The third temple was recently built by the present Royal Queen mother and these three temples are surrounded by 108 stupa wall symbolic of each joint of the Human body.
Tamshing Lhakhang: located opposite Kurje Lhakhang on the other site of the river was founded in the beginning of the 16the century by Terton Pema Lingpa, the reincarnation of Guru Padmasambhava. The monastery has very interesting religious painting like 1.000 Buddhas and 21 Taras (female form of Buddhisatawa). The temple was restored at the end of the 19th century.
Jakar Dzong: founded by the great grandfather of Shabdrung. The dzong was initially built as a monastery in 1549 but was upgraded after the Shabdrung had firmly established his power in 1646. The Dzong is now used as the administration centre for Bumthang valley.
MONGAR & LHUENTSE
Arriving in Mongar is great relief from the turns and heights of the journey over the pass. The town is small with a sprinkling of shops. Mongar Dzong is modern compared to others in the Kingdom. It was reconstructed by the order of the Third King. No drawings and nails have been used. A visit to the Dzong gives visitors an impression of how traditional Bhutanese architecture has continued to thrive through the centuries. A hydroelectric project under way and after completion it will have the capacity to output 60 megawatts of hydroelectricity which will change the industrial emphasis of the eastern area.
Lhuentse: is 77 kilometres from Mongar and is one of the most isolated districts in Bhutan. The landscape is spectacular with stark cliffs and gorges and dense coniferous forests. The region is notably famed for its weavers and special textiles and fabrics, generally considered to be the best in the country. The Kurtoe region of Lhuentse is also the ancestral home of the Royal dynasty.